How To Choose Good Sewing Machines For Quilting
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 6, 2010
Will Robins asked:
Quilting has long been an art with the earliest American women creating beautiful quilts to adorn their homes. However, there is much more to it now than there was then. Today’s quilters can take partake in the massive technological advances sine then to create he most beautiful pieces. Instead of using a needle and thread, most individuals that quilt have a good sewing machine for quilting at home. Manufacturers have catered for the demands of the modern seamstress and made several good sewing machines for quilting. You just have to be able to choose the right one!
Good sewing machines for quilting will have a great feeding mechanism so that the head is easy to thread. The quicker you can thread it, the quicker you can complete even the most intricate of quilts. Of course, the choice of stitching options also makes a difference in this respect. The wider the choice of stitching on a good sewing machine for quilting, the more appealing it is. These are all factors that need to be taken into consideration.
The bar length of a machine will also determine which models are good sewing machines for quilting and which are not. The general rule is the more room between the motor and the needle, the more options you have as far as the size of the quilt you can produce is concerned. The motor is of course is one of the most important parts of a good sewing machine for quilting. Although most sewing machines are designed for continuous use over a longer period of time, the heavy going that a quilt can bring is notorious for making the motor overheat. A good sewing machine for quilting is resistant to this for the most part and will offer you good value for money.
The needles that fit in the good sewing machine for quilting will also be an extremely important point for consideration. High quality needles will make all the difference to your work. Number 14 needles are the best option for quilting, but not all sewing machines will hold them. As soon as the needle is blunted, you should replace it with a new one, so ease of changing needles should also be a priority that you look for.
Good sewing machines
for quilting can really help you to enjoy your hobby rather than hindering it. A poor machine will leave you frustrated so it is well worth taking the time to research and choose from one of several good sewing machines for quilting. They may be a tad more expensive but they are worth every penny.
Quilting has long been an art with the earliest American women creating beautiful quilts to adorn their homes. However, there is much more to it now than there was then. Today’s quilters can take partake in the massive technological advances sine then to create he most beautiful pieces. Instead of using a needle and thread, most individuals that quilt have a good sewing machine for quilting at home. Manufacturers have catered for the demands of the modern seamstress and made several good sewing machines for quilting. You just have to be able to choose the right one!
Good sewing machines for quilting will have a great feeding mechanism so that the head is easy to thread. The quicker you can thread it, the quicker you can complete even the most intricate of quilts. Of course, the choice of stitching options also makes a difference in this respect. The wider the choice of stitching on a good sewing machine for quilting, the more appealing it is. These are all factors that need to be taken into consideration.
The bar length of a machine will also determine which models are good sewing machines for quilting and which are not. The general rule is the more room between the motor and the needle, the more options you have as far as the size of the quilt you can produce is concerned. The motor is of course is one of the most important parts of a good sewing machine for quilting. Although most sewing machines are designed for continuous use over a longer period of time, the heavy going that a quilt can bring is notorious for making the motor overheat. A good sewing machine for quilting is resistant to this for the most part and will offer you good value for money.
The needles that fit in the good sewing machine for quilting will also be an extremely important point for consideration. High quality needles will make all the difference to your work. Number 14 needles are the best option for quilting, but not all sewing machines will hold them. As soon as the needle is blunted, you should replace it with a new one, so ease of changing needles should also be a priority that you look for.
Good sewing machines
for quilting can really help you to enjoy your hobby rather than hindering it. A poor machine will leave you frustrated so it is well worth taking the time to research and choose from one of several good sewing machines for quilting. They may be a tad more expensive but they are worth every penny.
Computer aided woodworking?
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 6, 2010
Allergic To Eggs asked:
Computer aided woodworking?
33 minutes ago – 3 days left to answer.
Additional Details
31 minutes ago
Computer aided woodworking?
33 minutes ago – 3 days left to answer.
Additional Details
31 minutes ago
How new is this??
I was listening to the news (radio) and there was a brief story on computers helping woodworkers
Do you have links to share?
31 minutes ago
A computer program tells a cutting machine to cut the wood according to a design that’s fed into the computer or something
How an Alarm can Protect You
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 5, 2010
asked:
Taiwan ALTEK.woodworking machines,grinding machine,polishing machine,sanding machine,belt sanders.
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 4, 2010
helsmall asked:
http//www.altek-machine.com.tw. TEL:886-4-25629529.25620680. Email:jean@altek-machine.com.tw . Our company was established in 1985. It is a specialized manufacturer of auto wide belt sanders, and enjoys a high appraisal in the wood working machine circles. Being an experienced manufacturer with outstanding machine properties, we are trusted by clients. ALTEK brand wide belt sanders have extensive categories and models. Besides displaying the high efficiency of sanding, the precise surface sanding effect is always approved by clients. ALTEK provides perfect after-sales service with professional technological abilities.
The Wood Shaper
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 4, 2010
Lee Jesberger asked:
The wood shaper is a very useful machine, whether you have a garage woodshop or a commercial shop. Shaping wood is a rather easy process, once you have the right equipment, and some knowledge of how they work. Almost all woodworkers have used a router table at some point. The shaper is pretty much just a larger version, with more power, and the ability to handle much larger cutters, such as those used for raised panels or crown moldings. The variety of cutters is also much greater that those for routers. (plus you can still use all your router bits with them).
Shapers range in size and are identified by the horse power of the motor, and the diameter of the spindle. From less than one H.P. for bench top shapers, which I think if that’s what you need, you might as well stick with a router table. They increase in size to 2 H.P., 3 H.P., 5 H.P. and larger for industrial purposes. The shafts, or spindles are threaded on the end and range in size from 1/2″ to 1 1/4″. Many machines come with a couple sizes of spindles, as well as having router collets to allow router bits to be used in it.
These machines are much quieter than a router, due mainly to the fact their belt driven, and turn much slower than a router. Generally, the shaper cuter is turning between 7,000 – 10,000 R.P.M.’s, changed by relocating the belts on the stepped pulley system, much like a drill press, whereas a router will turn at between 20,000 and 25,000 R.P.M.’s, and are direct drive. It’s easy to understand the difference in noise levels, and the pitch of the noise. Instead of a high pitched whine of a router, it’s a quiet hum of a quality motor. (hopefully).
Shapers are also able to run in reverse, which is necessary in performing some cuts. It is very important to always check the position of the directional switch, particularly if you work with others. Feeding a board into a shaper that is turning the wrong direction could result in the board leaving the machine like a missile. It could be FATAL if the board were to hit somebody.
The shaper is considered to be the most dangerous machine in the shop, but with proper precautions and careful set-up it doesn’t need to be feared. There are several safety precautions you can, and should use. First thing would be use the plastic guard supplied with the shaper. It has a bearing in the center of it which allows it to spin freely, and is installed above the cutter. This alone would stop many of the injuries attributed to the shaper.
Jigs and fixtures are also a big help in reducing injury, and generally result in better cuts. The time spent to make them is well worth the effort. A very small device, but important one is the starter pin supplied with the machines. This is simply a metal rod, threaded on one end which screws into a hole located a few inches away from the cutter. Holding the work piece against the starter pin, and then feeding it into the cutter is the proper way to start a freehand cut.
Probably the best and also most expensive safety device would be a power feeder. As the name suggests, the power feeder is an attachment that feeds the workpiece past the cutter at a steady speed. While these were probably not designed as a safety feature, they certainly are. The benefits to using a power feeder, in addition to keeping your hands far from the cutters, (as if that weren’t enough), is the fact it will hold both down and in towards the fence with a great deal of force, while feeding the board steadily past the cutter. Both of these details are critical to nice smooth burn free shaping.
Instead of trying to shape narrow pieces, shape wide pieces and then rip them. Use a miter gauge, on end grain with a backer board to prevent tearout as the board leaves the cutter. On panels, such as raised panels for doors, shape the end grain first and then the edges parallel to the grain. This way any tear out on the end grain will be shaped off when you shape the edges. Make several shallow cuts instead of trying to make large moldings in one pass.
With some caution, careful planing, and common sense, injuries from this machine can be avoided. As always, if it doesn’t seem safe, DON’T DO IT.
The wood shaper is a very useful machine, whether you have a garage woodshop or a commercial shop. Shaping wood is a rather easy process, once you have the right equipment, and some knowledge of how they work. Almost all woodworkers have used a router table at some point. The shaper is pretty much just a larger version, with more power, and the ability to handle much larger cutters, such as those used for raised panels or crown moldings. The variety of cutters is also much greater that those for routers. (plus you can still use all your router bits with them).
Shapers range in size and are identified by the horse power of the motor, and the diameter of the spindle. From less than one H.P. for bench top shapers, which I think if that’s what you need, you might as well stick with a router table. They increase in size to 2 H.P., 3 H.P., 5 H.P. and larger for industrial purposes. The shafts, or spindles are threaded on the end and range in size from 1/2″ to 1 1/4″. Many machines come with a couple sizes of spindles, as well as having router collets to allow router bits to be used in it.
These machines are much quieter than a router, due mainly to the fact their belt driven, and turn much slower than a router. Generally, the shaper cuter is turning between 7,000 – 10,000 R.P.M.’s, changed by relocating the belts on the stepped pulley system, much like a drill press, whereas a router will turn at between 20,000 and 25,000 R.P.M.’s, and are direct drive. It’s easy to understand the difference in noise levels, and the pitch of the noise. Instead of a high pitched whine of a router, it’s a quiet hum of a quality motor. (hopefully).
Shapers are also able to run in reverse, which is necessary in performing some cuts. It is very important to always check the position of the directional switch, particularly if you work with others. Feeding a board into a shaper that is turning the wrong direction could result in the board leaving the machine like a missile. It could be FATAL if the board were to hit somebody.
The shaper is considered to be the most dangerous machine in the shop, but with proper precautions and careful set-up it doesn’t need to be feared. There are several safety precautions you can, and should use. First thing would be use the plastic guard supplied with the shaper. It has a bearing in the center of it which allows it to spin freely, and is installed above the cutter. This alone would stop many of the injuries attributed to the shaper.
Jigs and fixtures are also a big help in reducing injury, and generally result in better cuts. The time spent to make them is well worth the effort. A very small device, but important one is the starter pin supplied with the machines. This is simply a metal rod, threaded on one end which screws into a hole located a few inches away from the cutter. Holding the work piece against the starter pin, and then feeding it into the cutter is the proper way to start a freehand cut.
Probably the best and also most expensive safety device would be a power feeder. As the name suggests, the power feeder is an attachment that feeds the workpiece past the cutter at a steady speed. While these were probably not designed as a safety feature, they certainly are. The benefits to using a power feeder, in addition to keeping your hands far from the cutters, (as if that weren’t enough), is the fact it will hold both down and in towards the fence with a great deal of force, while feeding the board steadily past the cutter. Both of these details are critical to nice smooth burn free shaping.
Instead of trying to shape narrow pieces, shape wide pieces and then rip them. Use a miter gauge, on end grain with a backer board to prevent tearout as the board leaves the cutter. On panels, such as raised panels for doors, shape the end grain first and then the edges parallel to the grain. This way any tear out on the end grain will be shaped off when you shape the edges. Make several shallow cuts instead of trying to make large moldings in one pass.
With some caution, careful planing, and common sense, injuries from this machine can be avoided. As always, if it doesn’t seem safe, DON’T DO IT.
Omec 450 Dovetail machine – Scott & Sargeant UK
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 4, 2010
machines4wood asked:
Omec 450 Manual Dovetail machine – The Omec 450 is an ideal low cost manual machine for making dovetailed drawers & decorative joints. This dovetailer can produce up to 20 drawer boxes/hr. The cam clamping assures secure holding pressure for the parts to be machined. The spindle floats on linear bearings minimizing both operator effort & error. The eccentric cutter is easily adjusted to attain exact joint fit. Male and female joints are cut simultaneously. The machine has an adjustable pitch bar allowing you to easily produce 4 different size joints. For more information – visit our website www.machines4wood.com or contact us directly Scott & Sargeant Woodworking Machinery Ltd Blatchford Road, Horsham, RH13 5QR ENGLAND Tel +44 (0) 1403 273000
Crafts Articles – Find Crafts Related Articles on ArticlesBase.com
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 3, 2010
asked:
Las Vegas residents please help?
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 2, 2010
Don`tTreadOnMe asked:
I am seriously considering moving to Vegas, and need some help. Can anyone tell me if there is a factory in the city or surrounding area that manufactures wood doors? That is the kind of work I do. I am also proficient in all types of industrial woodworking machines. If someone could give me a little info, it would be greatly appreciated.
I would also be open to any type of factory job>
I am seriously considering moving to Vegas, and need some help. Can anyone tell me if there is a factory in the city or surrounding area that manufactures wood doors? That is the kind of work I do. I am also proficient in all types of industrial woodworking machines. If someone could give me a little info, it would be greatly appreciated.
I would also be open to any type of factory job>
AUTO. TENONING MACHINE
Posted by The Woodworker on Mar 1, 2010
FULPOWtaiwan asked:
MOD.: ATM-115 BRAND: FULLPOWER WOOD WORKING MACHINE, WOODWORKING MACHINE,WOODWORKING MACHINERY,WOODWORKING MACHINES
I’m looking for a new pc and need OpenGL support, will any graphics card support OpenGL?
Posted by The Woodworker on Feb 28, 2010
vanessa b asked:
I’m looking for a pc that runs windows vista for my new small business. The software that I will be using goes with a craftsman compucarve from sears. It’s a cnc type woodworking machine. For the graphics the pc operating the machine requires OpenGL support and I don’t want to buy the wrong thing because I have no idea what I need here and the people at Sears and the local Best Buy haven’t been a big help. So Please if you can help I would greatly appreiciate it.
I’m looking for a pc that runs windows vista for my new small business. The software that I will be using goes with a craftsman compucarve from sears. It’s a cnc type woodworking machine. For the graphics the pc operating the machine requires OpenGL support and I don’t want to buy the wrong thing because I have no idea what I need here and the people at Sears and the local Best Buy haven’t been a big help. So Please if you can help I would greatly appreiciate it.
